What is dry carbon and why does it cost more?

When you look at carbon parts you run into terms like dry carbon, prepreg, wet carbon and carbon look. Prices vary enormously: from a few tenners for a wrap to a few thousand euros for a hood. This article explains where that difference comes from, so you know what you're paying for.

Carbon look: not carbon

Let's start here, because it's the biggest source of confusion. Carbon look is plastic or metal with a carbon print or wrap on top. It weighs no less than the original and it's not stronger. It looks decent from a few feet away and it's cheap. Fine if you just want the visual effect, but it's not carbon.

Wet carbon: the common method

With wet carbon, also called wet lay-up, dry carbon fiber cloth is placed in a mold and hand-saturated with resin. It then cures, often at room temperature or under light pressure. This is the method used to make the vast majority of affordable carbon parts.

The result is genuine carbon fiber, and it's lighter and stronger than plastic. The downside lies in the resin-to-fiber ratio: because the resin is applied by hand, it ends up with more resin than strictly necessary. Resin is heavy and adds little to the strength. Air bubbles can also get trapped, which you sometimes see as tiny specks under the clear coat.

Dry carbon: prepreg and autoclave

Dry carbon uses prepreg: fabric that's already impregnated at the factory with exactly the right amount of resin, and stored refrigerated. That material goes into the mold and then into an autoclave, an oven that heats and pressurizes at the same time. That pressure squeezes out excess resin and removes trapped air.

What you end up with is a part with a higher fiber-to-resin ratio: lighter at the same strength, a tighter surface finish and better dimensional accuracy. The weave lies more evenly, which shows up as a calmer pattern under the clear coat.

The higher cost isn't down to the fabric itself, but to the process. An autoclave is expensive equipment, prepreg has to be stored refrigerated and has a limited shelf life, and a cycle takes hours. You're paying for production time and material waste, not a marketing story.

Forged carbon: a different look

Forged carbon isn't a woven cloth but pressed carbon fiber chips in resin. That gives it the characteristic marbled pattern instead of a checkered weave. It's strong and presses well into complex shapes, but it's mainly an aesthetic choice. Want that mottled look? Then it's the right pick. Want the classic weave? Then it isn't.

When is dry carbon worth it?

Honest answer: not always. For a set of canards or mirror caps the weight difference is negligible and you'll mainly notice the difference in surface quality. For large panels like a hood or trunk lid, the weight difference does add up, and that's also where you notice the dimensional accuracy: a large dry carbon panel holds its shape better and therefore tends to fit more precisely.

Our rule of thumb: for large panels and for parts you see up close, dry carbon is worth the money. For small accents, well-made wet carbon is a perfectly good choice.

What to look out for when buying

• Ask about the production process, not just the term. "Dry carbon" also gets used as a sales pitch.
• Look at the weave pattern in the photos: irregularities or distortion in the checkered pattern say something about the mold and the build quality.
• Ask whether the part has a UV-resistant finish. Carbon without good UV protection yellows.
• Check the fitment information: exact chassis code and model years.

For every carbon part in our shop, the product page states what it is and what it fits. Also read how to maintain carbon, since that's where you gain the most in how long it stays looking good.